In a handsome wainscoted interior, Christophe Bocquillon signs a concise menu that stars fine ingredients to share with friends over a glass of something before dinner (oysters, charcuterie, fries in beef tallow), together with heartier traditional main courses (confit of pork belly, cabbage and a sauce to die for). The bistro’s namesake is a fermented sauce popular with the Romans, and used by the chef to season beef tartare, in particular.