This buzzy contemporary restaurant in the heart of the city is eminently welcoming – terracotta walls, wooden tables, velvet-upholstered chairs and unusual light fixtures using bicycle wheels and exposed light bulbs. The dishes, largely inspired by the market, are deftly crafted: snails in bacon and époisses cheese; confit pork cheeks, chorizo and cream of sweet onions… The wine list is predominantly organic and stars Burgundy and Jura vintages.