Etto is Italian for ‘intimacy’. It’s hard to tell where the counter ends and the open kitchen begins, so guests and chef become entwined in a single, intimate space. Italian cuisine is accented by Japan’s four seasons. Antipasto misto, served on a Kiyomizu-yaki platter and strewn with leaves of the season, has a hassun sensibility. Five small dishes of salty and sour morsels keep the wine flowing.