There’s something uninhibited in the way Koji Okada and the cooks move around the kitchen – but in harmony, out of which emerges their kappo cuisine. The menu must include a hundred items, so the appeal here is that you can choose freely. Standard items include mackerel oshizushi and nodoguro nitsuke. Ginkgo croquettes are an autumn speciality. Try some nigiri to end. The focus is the ingredients themselves and the food is all about conveying flavours without affectation.