Um Plateau is casual, smart and hip and the soft lighting on the buzzy terrace sets the trendy tone. Start with a glass of wine or a cocktail in the lively bar, before perusing the menu which offers a fine choice of dishes to share and textbook classics. Examples range from razor clams in a subtle parsley jus to a juicy rib steak paired with a pepper sauce spiked in cognac, unless you wouldn’t prefer a ceviche or a big-boned ossobuco. While traditional at heart, this repertory is not averse to whisking you off on a culinary tour from the Mediterranean to Asia.