Nîmes-born chef Nicolas Fontaine, who honed his craft under Pierre Gagnaire for 20 years, is on home turf here with sommelier Logan Thouillez, whom he met at fine dining restaurant Duende. In a revamped bistro setting, complete with a patio terrace and a courtyard beneath a linden tree, this hugely popular spot serves market-fresh cuisine with Occitan and Mediterranean influences. The lunchtime set menu is excellent value for money. The dishes, modern in their presentation and sometimes notable for surprising pairings – think fish soup with… vegetables and grapefruit or harissa-spiked hollandaise over asparagus – are consistently precise, well-judged and full of flavour. A clever wine list with a good selection by the glass, plus expert guidance. Top-notch professional service.