Chef Benjamin Millard (formerly of Agastache in Lyon) runs this place single-handedly, doing double duty in the kitchen and front of house. Originally from Auvergne – pialha means "tavern" in the local dialect – he pulls off quite a feat here, serving 20-odd diners while delivering the same high standards on every plate. His approach remains unchanged: creative market-driven cuisine, presented in set menus that are regularly renewed. The colourful, flavour-packed dishes are testament to the chef's desire to please (courgette cannelloni with fromage frais, pine nuts and tomato water, tomato and verbena sorbet; skirt steak, grilled oyster mushrooms, mushroom cream and Parmesan crumble). The reasonable prices attract plenty of regulars and the restaurant is often fully booked.