Kosaka offers a stellar omakase in an elegant setting. The dining room flaunts a classic Japanese sensibility—outfitted with a counter for 12, a few tables, soft piano music, as well as an attentive staff that enhance the overall experience. Some counters like to keep everyone in sync, but Chef Masatomo Soma embraces flexibility and heads this counter with confidence and skill. Technique is impressive, and the fish is minimally embellished, sometimes bearing a subtle surprise – say a shiso leaf hidden under a slice of rosy seabass or a dab of yuzu koshō under a piece of kinmedai from Chiba.