Walk through the building’s front gate and descend the stairs to the underground level, and a space spreads out before you. To greet you are the head chef and proprietor, who together share all the joys and sorrows of running a restaurant. The kaiseki meal, which follows Japan’s old calendar, lavishly expresses the season in its flavours. The dining-ware, collected by both, brilliantly accentuates the cuisine. If you’d like to chat with the head chef as you dine, ask for a seat at the counter. Private rooms, with ceremonial décor based on the old calendar, are a treat.