Stéphanie Le Quellec makes no secret of her aim to "deconsecrate haute cuisine" courtesy of a generous gourmet ethos in which each dish tells a story. Her menus, which are comprised of varying numbers of courses, or "acts", may appear simple but every last detail has been endlessly puzzled over and her big-boned sauces are often enhanced by vintage sherry vinegar. Among her signature dishes is an iconic red mullet, the recipe of which she is constantly tweaking. The vibe is casual, both in the kitchen and dining room, and diners are invited to enjoy the present moment to the full. Warm seamless service from the on-the-ball front-of-house team. The unorthodox wine cellar features wines by the glass that are poured from a magnum, even a jeroboam bottle. At lunchtime, a tempting menu based on seasonal ingredients is served in the bistro.