Welcome to Jean-François Piège's "laboratory of great cuisine", a tiny dining area beneath a sculptural ceiling made up of panes of glass that catch and reflect the light. The chef gives full expression to the scope and breadth of his experience and know-how, executing timeless signature cuisine that finds its source in the annals of French gastronomy (the chef is said to own one of the finest cookery libraries of Paris). There is no carte but a tasting menu that tours the regions of France and revolves around Piège’s "mijotés modernes". This consummate chef demonstrates his creative talent and ability to provoke culinary emotion and taste without falling foul of the temptation to flaunt his skill. He invariably surprises us with dishes that are the epitome of simplicity and flavour, such as his succulent veal sweetbread cooked on walnut shells, served with whelks and a spicy stock emulsified by spring lettuce.