S like secret, savoury, sapid or Spinoza, not the philosopher but the owner who lovingly watches over this discreet Parisian establishment, and who is also a numismatist specialising in antique Greek coins and a genuine wine connoisseur. The talented Japanese chef Shimpei Oié crafts a fresh, healthy, balanced set menu backed up by his flawless culinary technique. Don’t miss the gilthead seabream: expertly fire-roasted and accompanied by white grapes and a kiwi juice. S like Super!