A paulownia tree once grew on this stretch of pavement in the 20th district, opposite the restaurant run by chef Geoffrey Belin and his sommelier partner, Tess Duteil. Since they met when working for Alain Passard, Geoffrey and Tess have retained their predilection for the premium ingredients that are the staple of starred restaurants (pigeon, duck, guinea fowl). Warm puff pastry pie filled with tender, aromatic Auvergne pork; guinea fowl in a gutsy salt crust; crunchy choux craquelin with house-made verbena ice cream. A bistro vibe with a large central bar, wainscoting and parquet flooring. Particularly friendly, cheerful service.