This bistro has reopened after a full-scale makeover that sports more comfort and elegance, new furnishings, modern light fixtures and a glazed wine cellar. The vibe is as warm and welcoming as ever, depicted by an open-plan kitchen offering a splendid view of the team at work. The chef now focuses on smaller but ever indulgent helpings, in a more forthright and less Gallic vein, but always courtesy of high-flying ingredients and attractive plating: steamed cod, caponata and puttanesca seasoning; lamb’s sweetbread sausages and foie gras; biscuit, ganache and chocolate ice cream. The owner’s market garden supplies the majority of the restaurant’s fruit and veg in season.