The room, elaborately decorated in Chinese palatial style, sports full-length windows overlooking the bustling cityscape. For 20+ years, the executive chef has honed his legacy skills, while adding a new spin to Huaiyang classics. Double-boiled ‘lion head’ meatballs are jazzed up with seasonal ingredients like matsutake and bamboo shoot, while Yangzhou fried rice, once garnished with shelled baby mussels, seduces with rich texture and wok hei.