Sourcing the finest ingredients is something of an obsession for Kyoto-born Kazuhiro Hamamoto. It's not just his nigiri, whether nodoguro or chutoro, that show his careful craftsmanship – the preceding dishes, such as the uni or smoked tuna course, prove just as memorable. Fish is paired with sushi rice dressed in either red or rice vinegar to accentuate its natural flavours. There is just one sitting at lunch and one at dinner, so book well ahead.