HOOV means ‘courtyard’ – a throwback to the restaurant’s original location, where it opened out onto such a space – but since January 2025 it has called the Savoy Hotel home. Classically based cooking incorporates both local and international elements into dishes that exhibit well-defined flavours and bold textural contrasts – and while at times the combinations can seem almost too eclectic, this is a chef who has the skill to know how far to push the boundaries. The list of wines and bespoke house cocktails changes in line with the seasonal menu in order to further enhance the experience.