A counter arches around the kitchen, drawing all eyes to the chef’s dynamic culinary performance. The themes here are richness and umami. Viewing the reduction and concentration of ingredients as the essence of French cuisine, the chef harmonises this with Japanese umami. In his meat sauce, for instance, he combines the inosinic acid of meat dashi with the glutamic acid of kelp dashi. At the same time, he places great importance on a contemporary lightness of flavour.