Subtlety of flavour is what this chef prizes: the native flavour of the ingredients must shine through. Exemplifying this principle are the wanmono, with broth prepared using Rishiri kombu for its umami. Delicate broth highlights the flavours of seasonal ingredients: fat greenling in spring, hair crab in summer, daggertooth pike conger in autumn, oysters in winter. Takikomi-gohan, mixed rice, cooked in a broad-brimmed pot is a point of pride. Lift the lid, and seasonal aromas billow out, announcing the changing seasons.