Chef Yasuhiro Hirano turns out some of the most exciting sushi in town at a counter in a private room tucked within sister restaurant, I-naba. His particular magic lies in weaving together a few key components, including exotic fish that he ages before blending with a host of ingredients. He’s mastered dishes that more established pros haven't—and to such precise and polished effect.With just a handful of seats at the counter and one seating nightly, reservations are a must (and go quickly). Chef Hirano enjoys sharing his craft, but you may opt for silence to savor such delicacies as soba with uni sauce, "udon" substituting baby eels for noodles, and a parade of nigiri such as kombu-cured kasugodai or two-week-aged shima aji.