The eponymous owner-chef, who amazed everyone by leaving the world of Formula 1 racing (in which he worked as a journalist) to return to his roots and take over the former family bar, demonstrates ambition, excellent technique and a strong desire to surprise. In this attractive restaurant, with its playful mix of the rustic and modern, Manu Franco focuses on the flavours of the mountains, locally sourced meat, aromatic plants (such as thyme and lavender) and vegetables, all of which are showcased on an weekday lunchtime “executive” menu and a contemporary-inspired tasting menu with two different formats (long and short), which varies from season to season. One dish that we enjoyed in particular was the highly original “Cocidito Madrileño” in three textures.