There’s a real comforting quality to the cooking at this smart modern brasserie in the heart of the city. Share a couple of small plates to start, before moving on to the main event: steaks. A variety of cuts of top-quality Argentinian beef are cooked over charcoal in the Josper oven, then served with traditional adornments like chips and béarnaise sauce. The desserts have a similarly classic approach, with satisfying options like tarte Tatin.