What is this restaurant's winning formula? A place steeped in history (an old printing house), a trio of chefs who have worked for Pierre Gagnaire, well-presented market cuisine. Day after day, regular customers flock here, which is always a good sign. Full flavours and conviviality are the hallmarks of their masterfully prepared dishes, as in the cod, red cabbage, pistachio, lemon butter and tarragon. More ambitious set menus in the evening.