Its look is somewhere between a Mediterranean restaurant and a tapas bar, with some counter dining and shelves bursting with cookery books and wine but, more importantly, it’s imbued with an air of contagious positivity and is a perfect fit for this buzzy neighbourhood. Dishes like hake with mussels or Tropea onion with hazelnut beurre noisette really hit the spot – and the charcuterie and cheeses are also good.