It’s a long way from Keswick to Horsham but, in making the move, the eponymous chef has brought life back to The Pass at South Lodge, one of the finest country house hotels in this part of the world. Ben Wilkinson is an intelligent and skilful chef who runs a calm, focused kitchen; sit at the high-topped tables to watch him and his young team prepare and then proudly serve a tasting menu of appealingly understated dishes. The flavours build as the menu progresses, and the suggested wine pairings are the way to go. Affable service adds to the experience.