Taught in the ways of old-school Japanese cooking, the owner-chef calls himself ‘a craftsman of the Showa years’. This shows in his honest, no-nonsense fare. Spring bamboo shoots join sea bream roe, simmered separately but served together; summer pike conger is paired with water shield in soup dishes; autumn matsutake mushrooms are cooked along with rice; in winter, enjoy fried dumplings made from Kyoto yam. Indicate your preferences and the chef is happy to make impromptu adjustments. Enjoy à la carte or omakase set meals as the spirit moves you.