The buzz from the bar is the first thing you notice at Jason Atherton’s handsome restaurant on the 24th floor of Tower 42. Dark and moody, with a subtle art deco twist, it boasts impressive views of the City skyline. The concise menu offers unadulterated dishes with a British heart and, while the kitchen has a deft touch, acknowledges its customer base by making dishes robust in flavour and generous in size – this is elegant, refined but satisfying cooking. The Josper-cooked meats are a hit, and the wines are also noteworthy, with a good mix of styles and prices.