Owner-chef Thomas Ponson is not one to twiddle his thumbs, to the point that the street could almost be named after him, given the quantity of thriving businesses (bistro, café, bouchon, fish and seafood restaurant) he has opened here. In the parent bistro, he crafts enticing lunchtime menus, while the evening score shines the spotlight on his high-flying technical skills, revolving around ingredients such as scallops, pigeon, lamb sweetbread, etc). A must…