Chef Clément Briand-Seurat has left the Pic Saint-Loup restaurant to open his own establishment (Cena means supper or dinner in Latin) beneath the ribbed vaults of a medieval edifice in the heart of historic Montpellier. A snug, romantic vibe, enhanced by centuries-old stonework and candle-lit rough oak tables, sets the scene. The chef signs a creative single set menu in which he endeavours to enhance the produce of local growers and breeders thanks to flawless craftsmanship (chutneys, oils, crumbles, crackers and whipped siphon concoctions). His knockout mushroom consommé and ‘stroll in the woods’ embodies this ethos.