Duck your head into this beloved old guard, its loyal patrons buzzing about as happy as ever, to get a sense of what the fuss is all about. This kitchen is still all about delicious Italian, yes, but now the ingredients are more carefully sourced, on the healthy side and with a deep commitment to GMO-free grains, less butter and no processed oils.Chef Marco Canora's focus on vegetables, grains and brodi is a winning combo; make sure to begin with their warm whole-grain bread with creamy lardo. Then Sorana beans are braised to perfection with garlic and mackerel “bottarga;” while cured egg yolk and chervil tops carrot and beet tartare. Meat lovers take heart—Hearth’s excellent maccheroni pork ragù, "variety burger," and meatballs are still available.