Slick financial types flex their expense accounts at this longtime Northern Italian retreat. Its polished décor belies a comforting menu of dishes executed with care—from slow-roasted vitello tonnato and semolina-dusted petrale sole to handmade pastas. The plin con salsiccia d'anatra, with its sage-flecked pasta folded around deep crimson duck sausage and bathed in duck jus, is positively satisfying.  The space is larger inside than it looks, with plenty of booths and seats at the gleaming marble bar up front to the buzzy tables in the back with a view of the open-plan kitchen. Well-versed servers will encourage saving room for the end of the meal—as the cheese display, an impressive selection of grappas and delicious desserts are all highlights.