In this age of uncertainty who wouldn’t travel some distance for food that’s almost absurdly comforting? Here, in a converted warehouse in Red Hook, that means pit-smoked meats with flavors of such intensity, you’ll find yourself wondering if you’ll eat kale or muesli ever again.
Standing in line gives you time to think about your order. Just be sure it includes brisket, pulled pork and beef ribs. A side of collard greens simply enhances the feast. Fat, considered by some a bad word, is what gives the meat its succulence and soft texture, as does the crust of salt, pepper, and turbinado sugar. Grab some cutlery, take a seat, and give a nod of thanks to the Stars and Stripes painted on the wall before reacquainting yourself with your inner hunter gatherer.- die MICHELIN-Tester