There’s little resembling the Chumley’s of old, save the name, door, and framed book jackets of writers who apparently found their muse in a glass here. This famed watering hole is now a serious dining contender. Leather banquettes, French-oak tables, and patterned wallpaper are long on looks, but rest assured, as it’s all about the (really good) food. Dishes sound familiar—steak tartare and lobster rolls—but there’s nothing ho-hum here. The menu leans gloriously gastropub with selections like duck confit with waffles or chili and roast chicken for two. Savory apple tart is a well-executed and creative starter, but it's the dry-aged burger topped with bone marrow and sided by aromatic beef fat fries that remains a much-ordered treasure.
- die MICHELIN-Tester